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CHAPTER 1 CLOTHING CLASSIFICATIONS服装分类1

1 Classifications with a View to Everyday Life日常分类1

1.1 Upper Clothing上装1

1.2 Lower Clothing下装4

1.3 Suits and Ensembles西服套装和便服套装6

2 Classifications with a View to International Trade国际贸易中的分类7

2.1 Classification Based on H.S.Code基于协调制编码的分类7

2.2 Classification Based on Special Regulations基于特殊规则的分类8

2.3 Classification Based on the Method of Manufacture基于生产方法的分类9

3 Importance of the Classifications分类的重要性9

3.1 For Statistical Purposes为了统计10

3.2 To Describe the Name of the Goods in a Contract为了描述合同中的商品名称10

Words and Phrases词汇16

Exercises练习24

CHAPTER 2 GARMENT SECTIONS,PATTERNS AND MEASUREMENT LOCATIONS服装组成部分，样板和测量部位1 Garment Sections服装组成部分26

1.1 Sections in Upper Garments上装的组成部分26

1.1.1 Body大身26

1.1.2 Sleeves袖28

1.1.3 Collars领子30

1.1.4 Pockets衣袋32

1.2 Sections in Lower Garments下装的组成部分33

1.2.1 Trousers裤33

1.2.2 Skirt裙34

1.3 Other Garment Components and Styling Details其他衣片和款式细节35

2 Patterns样板39

3 Measurement Locations测量部位40

Words and Phrases词汇44

Exercises练习53

CHAPTER 3 GARMENT FABRICS,ACCESSORI-ES,LABELS AND HANGTAGS服装的织物、辅料、标签和吊牌1 Garment Fabrics服装的织物55

1.1 Shell Fabrics面料55

1.2 Linings里料57

2 Accessories辅料58

2.1 Sewing Threads缝纫线58

2.2 Fasteners扣合件61

2.2.1 Buttons纽扣61

2.2.2 Zippers拉链62

2.2.3 Snaps揿钮64

2.2.4 Velcro尼龙搭扣65

2.3 Interlinings衬头65

2.4 Wadding填料66

2.5 Other Accessories其他辅料67

3 Labels and Hangtags标签和吊牌68

3.1 Labels标签68

3.1.1 Brand Label品牌标签69

3.1.2 Origin Label产地标签69

3.1.3 Size Label尺码标签70

3.1.4 Washing Label洗涤标签70

3.1.5 Other Labels其他标签71

3.2 Hangtags吊牌72

Words and Phrases词汇73

Exercises练习80

CHAPTER 4 WORKING SHEETS工艺单82

1 The Function of Working Sheets工艺单的作用82

2 Contents of a Working Sheet工艺单的内容82

2.1 Material Specifications and Consumption材料的规格和耗用量83

2.2 Working Sketch效果图84

2.3 Technical Details技术细节85

2.3.1 Stitch Sypes线迹类型85

2.3.2 Stitch Density线迹密度91

2.3.3 Seam Types缝子类型91

2.3.4 Edge Binding and Seam Neatening滚边和缝子毛边处理93

2.3.5 Seam Allowance缝头94

2.4 Size Chart尺寸表94

3 Abbreviations and Simplified Words in the Working Sheets工艺单中的缩略词和简化词96

Words and Phrases词汇100

Exercises练习104

CHAPTER 5 GARMENT MANUFACTURE服装生产106

1 Introduction to Manufacturing Sequences生产工艺流程介绍106

1.1 Manufacturing Sequences for Cut-fashioned Garments裁剪成形服装的生产流程106

1.1.1 Pattern Cutting样板制作106

1.1.2 Sample Making打样109

1.1.3 Grading推档109

1.1.4 Fabric and Accessory Inspection织物和辅料检验110

1.1.5 Lay-planning and Marker-making铺料设计和画排料图112

1.1.6 Fabric-spreading铺料117

1.1.7 Cutting裁剪118

1.1.8 Sorting,Bundling and Numbering分类、打捆和打号118

1.1.9 Fusing上黏合衬119

1.1.10 Sewing,Under Pressing and Trimming缝纫、小烫和修整119

1.1.11 Finishing and Final Pressing整理和成衣熨烫120

1.1.12 Garment Inspection服装检验121

1.1.13 Packaging包装121

1.2 For Knit-fashioned Garments对于编织成形的服装122

2 Equipment in Clothing Factories服装厂设备124

2.1 Equipment in Sewing Rooms裁剪车间设备125

2.1.1 Cutting Table裁剪桌125

2.1.2 Spreading Machine铺料机125

2.1.3 Cutting Tools裁剪工具126

2.1.4 Fusing Equipment上黏合衬设备128

2.1.5 Other Equipment in Cutting Rooms裁剪车间的其他设备129

2.2 Equipment in Sewing Rooms缝工车间设备129

2.2.1 Overview of Primary Sewing Machines基本缝纫机的概况129

2.2.2 Primary Systems in a Sewing Machine缝纫机的主要系统130

2.2.3 Other Equipment其他设备135

2.2.4 Production Lines生产线136

2.3 Equipment used in the Finishing Room整理车间所用设备138

Words and Phrases词汇140

Exercises练习150

CHAPTER 6 GARMENT QUALITY ISSUES服装质量问题152

1 The Importance of Garment Quality服装质量的重要性152

2 The Criteria for Garment Quality服装的质量准则152

3 Common Garment Quality Problems常见的服装质量问题153

3.1 Inherent Quality内在质量153

3.2 Apparent Quality外在质量156

3.2.1 Apparent Quality Problems due to Fabric Faults源于织物疵点的外在质量问题157

3.2.2 Apparent Quality Problems due to Poor Workman-ship or Manufacturing Skills源于不良的做工或生产技术的外在质量问题158

Words and Phrases词汇161

Exercises练习164

Keys to Exercises练习题答案166

Index to Words and Phrases词汇索引168

Chinese Version中文参考译文207

Suggested Further Reading and Links to Websites建议进一步阅读的读物和浏览的网站279